IF you want a fun, informative tour of Mumbai in a private vehicle, Kishore Khare is your chap. He offers excursions featuring the landmarks of Gregory David Roberts’s 2003 novel Shantaram, but itineraries can be tailored to suit, whether your primary interest is shopping, history, culture or cricket. Khare propels me around south Mumbai, slicing effortlessly through the surging traffic and pointing out places of interest, from a laundry ghat to a Jain temple. He is full of lively patter, including insights that can be gained only from locals. At the turreted Crawford Market, we trawl labyrinthine laneways for Bollywood-bling ribbons; at the Taj Mahal Palace hotel, we stop for iced drinks and the promise of a sparkling lavatory. About $45 for a half-day tour in a vehicle for up to four passengers.